As the sun began to set we chugged our way across Lake Garda to Malcesine. The dense haze that hung around the lake and its looming hills began to dissipate. It was taken over by a soft pink glow that sank into oranges and reds behind the black shadowy mountains. Tiny home scattered across its surface glittered in white and pale pastels.
Before us stood a large fortress in stone. Up on a hill, it overlooked the yellow village. Alas, given the day and the time, there would be no visiting.
Where Limone was for a drink and a wander, Malcesine was for dinner and dessert. Most of the shops had closed and this really was a blessing- sometimes its good to let what would normally be a setback become an opportunity to just enjoy the town sans dodging in and out of stores. We strolled through the town square, passing visitors and checkered bistro tables with apertivos. The sun sank and the town began to glow with lamp light.
In the small harbor were several docked masted ships. These had attracted enough attention that a harbor restaurant was out of the question. We continued on to a quieter street, finding a sprawling waterfront spot for a leisurely meal.
We sat in the patio corner with the ducks muttering to themselves and the odd dragonfly swooping past. The waiter brought spritzes and crostini, olive oil and balsamic, chopped tomatoes, salty cheeses, frito misto, wine, risotto studded with scallops and tiny shrimps, shavings of parmesan and speck as the sun sank lower.
Up next: Bolzano!